Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. (Do this while you are cranking.) What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. The RPM would increase for no reason. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. So you installed your Holley Sniper. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Any idea's? )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. Try it! If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Is this normal ? But nothing beats a good solid gut-check The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Seems to be working. Do you have any clue? I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. is the fuel pressure. Please help. That's what you're seeing. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Overview. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. Thank you so much for your follow-up. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. Or is there something else I should At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Save Share. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Others might require 60 RPM. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Thanks so much for reading! I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. check out the. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. any ideas? The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. I keep doing that with the same result. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. I believe because the TPS is not registering. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. They tell you to ask call Holley. Should the iac% fluctuate? I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. Thanks Again for your help. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. You could go either way.. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. back to trying to zero down an idle. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. I keep wondering how it was running so good with Hello. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Definitely would have went with you guys. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Then it started behaving oddly. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. I appreciate everything you are saying. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor.
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